Gujarati Handvo
A savoury lentil and rice cake with bottle gourd, a crisp golden crust and a sesame-mustard tadka. Perfect for tiffin or dinner.
Handvo is a Gujarati savoury cake made from a fermented batter of rice and lentils, studded with grated bottle gourd and spices. It sits happily at breakfast, in a tiffin box, or as a light dinner with chutney and tea. What makes it work is the sour, well-fermented batter, which gives a soft crumb inside, and the hot oil tadka of mustard and sesame poured into the pan first, which builds the crisp, deep golden crust on the base. This version is cooked in a heavy pan on the stove, so no oven is needed.
Method
- Wash rice and all three dals together and soak in plenty of water for 5 to 6 hours. Drain, then grind to a coarse, grainy batter using the curd and just enough water; it should be thick, like cake batter.
- Cover the batter and ferment in a warm place for 8 to 10 hours or overnight, until it rises and smells pleasantly sour.
- Mix in the bottle gourd, carrot, peas, ginger-chilli paste, turmeric, chilli powder, sugar and salt. If the batter looks watery, add 2 to 3 tbsp besan or semolina.
- Heat 3 tbsp oil in a 9 to 10 inch heavy-bottomed non-stick pan on medium heat. Add mustard seeds; when they crackle add sesame, cumin, hing and curry leaves.
- Add the fruit salt to the batter, stir once gently and pour it straight into the hot tadka. Spread evenly and sprinkle a little sesame on top.
- Cover and cook on low heat for 15 to 18 minutes, until the base is deep golden and the top looks set.
- Brush the top with oil, then flip carefully using a plate and slide the handvo back in. Cook uncovered on low for 10 to 12 minutes until the second side is golden and a knife comes out clean.
- Rest for 5 minutes, then cut into wedges.
Chef's tips
- Use a heavy pan and keep the heat low; thin pans burn the base before the centre sets.
- Squeeze the grated bottle gourd lightly. Too much water makes the handvo soggy and heavy.
- Add fruit salt only right before pouring into the pan, or the batter loses its lift.
- If you cannot flip it, cook covered 10 minutes more, then finish under a hot grill for a few minutes.
What to serve it with
Serve hot with green chutney, garlic chutney or tomato ketchup, and a cup of masala chai.
Storage
Keeps in the fridge for 2 days in an airtight box. Reheat slices on a tawa with a little oil until crisp.
Variations
- Replace half the bottle gourd with grated cabbage or finely chopped spinach.
- Bake in a greased tin at 190 C for 35 to 40 minutes instead of cooking on the stove.
- Make an instant version with ready handvo flour mixed with curd and left to rest for 30 minutes.
Recipe by Chef Purna Shah. More videos on YouTube and Instagram.
Recipe questions
Can I make handvo without fermenting the batter?
Yes, but the texture will be denser. Add a little more sour curd and let the batter rest 1 to 2 hours, then use fruit salt to lift it. Fermented batter gives the best flavour and softness.
Why is my handvo raw in the centre?
The heat was too high or the pan too thin, so the base browned before the centre cooked. Cook on low in a heavy pan, keep it covered, and check with a knife before flipping.
Can I make handvo in a pressure cooker?
Yes. Prepare the tadka in the cooker base, pour in the batter and cook covered on low without the whistle for 25 to 30 minutes, then flip and brown the top briefly.
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